bośn. Sarajevo/Сарајево/tur. Saraybosna

Jestem w Sarajewie. W zniszczonym, intensywnie ostrzelanym Sarajewie. Spie na dziko pod namiotem, rzeczy zostawiam w krzakach i kapie sie w gloniastej rzece (dzieki czemu pewnie nabawie sie kolejnej wysypki, mam nadzieje, ze tym razem beda to zielone, gloniaste kropki). 100% cyganerii.

W Bosni stop dziala naprawde super, sympatyczni ludzie, w kaseciaku rozbrzmiewa turbofolk, za szyba przemykaja zielone gory.

Przygoda z Bosnia zaczela sie od Goražde, ktore glownie kojarzylam z wiadomosci TVP1 w latach 90-tych oraz komiksu Joe Sacco. Praktycznie kazdy budynek nosi slady walk glownie z okresu 1992-94, budynki sa albo rozwalone, podziurawione jak ser szwajcarski albo pozalepiane gipsem. Bosniackie latki po prostu. Ale mi sie podoba, takie miasta wydaja mi sie bardziej zywe, z pietnem historii widocznym na kazdym kroku.

Acha, w Serbii podwiezli nas (podrozuje z czeskim znajomym) lokalni gangsterzy. Juz mina kierowcy sugerowala, ze nie bedzie to zwycyajna jazda, ale po kolei. Najpierw okazalo sie, ze moj kolega siedzi na kokainie. Potem kierowca ostentacyjnie splunal przez okno nonszalancko mowiac "Excue me. Cocain in my throat" a nastepnie wyjal z deski rozdzielczej spluwe i podal ja swojemu ziomkowi. Ten zas dyskretnie schowal ja za pasek. W takich chwilach mowie sobie, ze przeciez my, austostopowe plotki, nic nie jestesmy winne, a co wiecej skoro sie zatrzymali z pierwotnie dobra intencja podwiezienia nas, czemu nagle mieliby sie nas np. pozbyc?
Moze moj opis jest bez emocji, ale byl to moj pierwszy stop w zyciu, kiedy autentycznie balam sie, ze wyladuje na masce auta jadacego z naprzeciwka. Nawet nie chodzi o predkosc, ale co najmniej brawurowy sposob jazdy polaczony z jazda po gorskich serpentynach i wyprzedzaniu na nieprzerywanej linii w tunelach ciemnych jak gorzka czekolada. 100% adrenaliny calkowicie za free.

Jak do tej pory zaden bosniacki gangster nas nie podwiozl, a wrecz przeciwnie - podwiozl nas poczciwy bosniacki gliniarz.

P.S. Jesli ktos mysli, ze postradalam zmysly nadal jezdzac na stopa, odpowiadam, ze jeszcze sie trzymam. Pozdrowienia z Sarajewa!

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