Three weeks into my Panchakarma retreat

I am currently three weeks into my Panchakarma retreat. It feels like I have entered level four of a captivating video game. The anticipation (or dread) of the impending final stage of my detox journey, known as the infamous ‘vasti’-(often referred to as “the mother of all panchakarma procedures”), looms overhead.

Last week, I underwent the ‘nasya’ treatment, that is cleanse of your nasal passages and detoxification of the head and neck. This procedure came with a challenging condition: no hair washing allowed. For a full seven days, my hair remained unwashed, gradually becoming so greasy that catching a glimpse of it in the mirror turned into a test of endurance!

Fortunately, the ‘nasya’ experience had a silver lining, as it was coupled with herbal steam bath and ‘kizhi’ treatment—a pounding massage with heated herbal pouches infused with medicinal oils. These fragrant sachets worked their magic on my body, providing a perfect blend of invigoration and relaxation. ‘Kizhi’ massage compiled with steam bath guaranteed that both your body and mind felt nourished and restored after the treatment.

Healthy vegan meals at the ashram

The next stage of Panchakarma proved even more rewarding: no more morning nasal drops, only the serene embrace of Shirodara accompanied by ‘kizhi’ massage throughout the entire week. Shirodhara is an Ayurvedic technique that involves having someone gently pour liquid – usually oil, medicated milk or buttermilk (sorry vegans!) – onto your forehead. If my previous treatment was melting, Shirodhara takes you to yet another stage of previously unknown relaxation. For half an hour or so, your forehead receives the most soothing massage ever imaginable. While the liquid pours down your hair, you slowly fall into a very powerful and deeply relaxing sleep. Any tension disappears in your body while your mind sets off to drift on the calming waves of the ocean. I would compare this feeling to the experience of ‘yoga nidra’,  however Shirodhara resonates within you on a much deeper level. It’s pure bliss.

As you would imagine, Panchakarma affects your mind as well. During the last three weeks, my mind has been picking on conversations, people and events that took place in the past year. I observe these thoughts and let them pass as if they were clouds in the sky. Some of the unresolved and unspoken issues visit my dreams too. For instance last night I had this semi conscious dream in which I was actively and consciously creating a narrative of it. I’m still yet to assess the whole Panchakarma retreat and time will tell what final impact this will have on me. Without a doubt, however I have regained full balance, feel relaxed and calm about everything like I never felt in my life before.

I have one more week left at the ashram, then I set out to explore Kerala. I will begin with Varkala then move further north towards Alleppey from where I will use backwaters to travel by boat. I will then head over to Periyar Tiger Reserve for two days of hiking in the jungle and after that I will wander around the tea plantations of Munnar. And after that... well, stay tuned, and you will soon find out!

In the meantime, enjoy photos from the neighbourhood. 

Vellayani lake

The neighbourhood is very lush, full of coconut and banana trees:

Giant Shiva statue at Aazhimala Shiva Temple

Local temple in Pachallor

Natural history museum in Trivandrum:

Napier Museum in Trivandrum:

Hanuman is my favourite Ramayana character. God of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion and self discipline

Panipuri - bite sized breaded street food filled with potato, chickpeas and condiments. I'd describe it as very sensational experience!

Friendly buffalo met by the lake