Thekkady, Kumily or... Periyar?

"Goodnight! See you tomorrow!"

How many visits to a shop does it take to be recognised as a 'regular'? It turns out to be four in the case of the "Tea, Coffee & Masala tea" shop that, apart from hot drinks, sells a variety of Indian snacks such as pakora or vedi, biscuits, and toiletries. The main clientele consists of autorickshaw and jeep safari drivers. They have strategically chosen the fork junction in Kumily as a hangout spot, as it leads to the Periyar Tiger Reserve boat entrance, Bamboo Grove entrance, and the main bus station, making it a natural hub. On top of that, the national park tourist office is just opposite the shop, so there will always be a tourist that needs a lift. Or safari, although those trips are not supported by the national park that promotes ecotourism.


Morning boost of 'kopi' at my favourite Kumily joint


Back of one of many safari jeeps

Speaking of ecotourism, while staying here, I visited the jungle three times. First as a part of Night Scout, then I did half a day of Bamboo Rafting, and finally I participated in a 15 km long Border Hiking program. If I had to choose the best activity, I would honestly say that each of them offers a different and unique insight into the park.


Periyar National Park entry

During the night scout program, you venture into the jungle at night, the total darkness creeps on you, and you can feel animals' eyes gazing back at you. That's when a torch comes handy: to determine whether the eyes belong to a predator or herbivore. We, meaning myself and two park rangers, one of them carrying a rifle, nearly walked into a herd of gaurs (Indian bison), because of their rather large frame they can be very dangerous (adult males weigh up to 800-850 kg!). We also saw many deer, magical fireflies, and majestic webs made by the rather largish female of the giant wood spider. Oh and, of course, it's the wet season, so the leeches were in abundance... Protected by special anti-leech socks and tobacco powder, luckily I didn’t have a close encounter with any of the blood-sucking worms!


Herd of gaurs spotted during Night Scout 


These mushrooms look like hatitifatteners from the Moomins!


Ever curious representative of the leechland!


The giant wood spider weaving the web

Bamboo Rafting included a 5 km trek to the lake, followed by rafting, and then a trek back. Once again, we had a rather close encounter with the gaur, which eventually led to spotting an elephant as we had to detour from the main path, using a rather bushy track. I didn’t even hope to see an elephant, and here we were, I was admiring this grey giant from a 20 m distance. 




Serene bamboo rafting 



                       Indian bison encounter vol.2    

On the third day, I decided to hike up the mountains which serve as a natural border between the Kerala and Tamil Nadu states. One of the rangers told me a story about how two weeks ago, a group of hikers had a chance to spot a tiger running across the path. Unfortunately, I wasn't lucky enough to see a tiger, but I spotted Nilgiri langurs, great hornbills, Indian giant squirrel, many varieties of fungi, and I even swayed on a natural liana swing - my Jungle Book dream came true! 


Sambar deer welcomed us into the park


In a way I appreciate that it was a misty day; added so many layers to the landscape! 


The border between Kerala and Tamil Nadu states




The liana swing

The surroundings of Thekkady, such as tea plantations, spice gardens and, of course, the tiger reserve, make the town a desirable destination. I had a wonderful time there, starting with amazing accommodation, surrounding nature and wildlife (the latter was so close it expanded onto my balcony, where occasionally a brown macaque would pop in for a visit!) and a delicious family-run restaurant that became my favourite place to eat from day one. No wonder I stayed there for a full five days!                                            


Giant lemon seen at the spice garden


Peppercorns 


Cocoa fruit


Coffee beans


Cardamon


Connemara Tea plantation 

Going back to the post opener, tomorrow I leave Kumily (or Thekkady or Periyar - the town is often referred to by one of three interchangeable names), and so I had to say to my shop friend: Sorry, I will not see you tomorrow, but... see you in future, I hope!

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